Hawaii Journal: History & Nature

Journey's End - Kona

Ohia Blossom

Hawaii’s history and culture are visible on the Big Island for those who look for this evidence. The western and northern part of Hawaiʻi island  known as the Kona – Kohala Coast gets very little rainfall during the yearly seasons. We stayed in the area in Puako which gets less than 15 inches per year. It is a desert.  It was also the area that King Kamehameha the First made his ancestral home.

Kamehameha I took control of  the Kona and Kohala districts in 1782, but for eight years since then fought in a number of inconclusive battles. After returning from Maui  in 1790, he was attacked by his cousin Keoua Kuahu’ula who still controlled the East side of the island. He returned to the village of Kawaihae, where he had spent some time earlier. A respected Kauna (priest) named Kapokahi suggested building a lueakeni heiau (sacrificial temple) to gain the favor of the war god Kukaillimoku

Puʻukoholā Heiau meaning “Temple on the Hill of the Whale” was the result, probably on the site of an older temple from about 1580. It was built entirely by hand with no mortar, in less than a year. The red stones were transported by a human chain about 14 miles long, from Pololu Valley to the East. Construction was supervised by Kamehameha’s brother Keli’imaki’i, involving thousands of people.

Monument near the site of the Death of Captain Cook

The Temple on the Hill of the Whale: Pu'ukohala Heiau

Ohai Blossom - endemic tree blossom

Rainforest wet side of Mauna Kea

Read more.. Sunday, January 13th, 2013

Hawaii Journal: Ocean Biodiversity and Humpback Whales

Octopus breaks free

Still life

Lava at the water's edge

Wandering Tattler

Northern Pintail got blown in overnight

Ruddy Turnstones

Pam, Mia and Spencer inspect the tidepools

Green turtle with coat of algae forgaing in the pools

Every year more than 2,000 humpback whales migrate to Hawaiian waters.  A population of up to 600 inhabits the waters off Big Island’s western coast.Humpbacks come to Hawaii for two reasons: to mate and to give birth.  Most Hawaiian humpbacks travel 3000 miles from Alaska where they spend their summers, but whales in Hawaii have been recorded traveling all over the Pacific, coming from as far away as South America and Russia.

Adults can attain lengths of up to 60 feet, but most humpbacks max out at around 45 feet.  At birth the calf weighs only about a ton (mom weighs up to 50 tons), but it comes out already measuring nearly 15 feet in length. After watching diligently from the shore for more than week from several locations and witnessing the telltale signs of mother and calf pairs interacting from time to time we finally got the chance to get out on a boat and see these magnificent creatures close up. This youngster was barely a week or two old and was learning to breathe and dive along side its mother. It treated us to a couple of “baby breaches”.

Read more.. Sunday, January 13th, 2013

Hawaii Journal: Volcanos & Coral Reefs

Son Spencer is impressed

Yellow Tang

Keakakekua Bay (Photo by Moon M. King)

We observed these turtle at a "cleaning station"

School of Triggerfish off of Puako

Absolutely fantastic encounters with turtles and reef fish by snorkel. We were tipped off to a location several 100 yards off shore where Green turtles gather to get “cleaned” by willing reef fish who feed on the algae that gathers on their shells. Incredible to see.

Cleaning Station

Sea urchin feeds in the shallow reef areas

Volcanoes are monuments to Earth’s origin, evidence that its primordial forces are still at work. During a volcanic eruption, we are reminded that our planet is an ever-changing environment whose basic processes are beyond human control. As much as we have altered the face of the Earth to suit our needs, we can only stand in awe before the power of an eruption. There are few places on our planet that one can witness the origins and Volcanoes National Park’s Kilauea Volcano is one such place.


Ancient Tree molds from eruptions of the past


Lava tube

Inside a lava tube -volcanic drips on the roof

Read more.. Sunday, January 13th, 2013

Hawaii Journal: Rare and in Danger

Nene - an ancient goose

Palila in Mopane forest on Mauna Kea


Amakihi feeds in endemic ohia trees


Akiapola'au - Juvenile

Mature male Aki feeding

Juvenile Aki



Palila - these birds occupy the dry mopane forest

Hawaiian Akepa

Of Hawaii’s birds, the honeycreepers (Drepanidinae) are most famous, having put on what is arguably the world’s most dazzling display of adaptive radiation–an explosion of species from a single unspecialized ancestor to at least 54 species that filled available niches in the islands’ habitats. In fact, speciation in the Hawaiian honeycreepers dwarfs the famed radiation of Darwin’s 14  Galapagos finches. Robert Fleischer, Cheryl Tarr, and Carl McIntosh at the National Zoo’s Molecular Genetics Laboratory estimate that the honeycreepers’ ancestor arrived three to four million years ago; others put the arrival farther back, at closer to seven million years ago. This ancestor–one colonizing species of finch, possibly a  Eurasian rosefinch (Carpodacus sp.) or, less likely, the North American house finch (Carpodacus mexicanus)–started what proved to be an evolutionary snowball. “There must have been a lot of open niches, and the birds hit the islands and speciated very rapidly,” says Fleischer, who studies the genetics of fossil and living Hawaiian birds. Rapidly, in terms of geologic time, is thought to be within the first 200,000 to 300,000 years after the first finch touch-down.

Nectar-feeding honeycreepers evolved dramatically curved bills designed for probing and extracting the nectar from the flowers of Hawaii’s endemic lobelias and other plants. Insectivorous honeycreepers developed thin, warbler-like bills for picking insects from the foliage. Seed-eaters developed stouter, stronger bills for cracking tough husks. Some species probed or cracked bark with strong hooked bills seeking wood-boring insects, thereby filling a niche woodpeckers do elsewhere.

Honeycreepers shared the islands with an array of other unique bird species. In 1991, Storrs L. Olson and Helen F. James of the Smithsonian’s National Museum of Natural History described for the first time 32 extinct species they identified from bones found in lava tubes, sinkholes, dunes, and excavated Polynesian refuse piles (middens) on the main Hawaiian Islands over the past 19 years. Three others had been previously described. When their analyses are through, at least 20 more species will likely be added.  These recent findings conjure up a vision of an almost mythical world where birds, not mammals, dominated. Large flightless waterfowl called moa nalos were the islands’ large herbivores. A harrier, a hawk, an eagle, and four owls topped the food chain as predators. No mammals patrolled the ground (Hawaii’s only native land mammal is a bat), and, with the need to fly gone, many of the castaway bird species, such as endemic ducks, ibis, and rails, lost their powers of flight.

'Io , Hawaiian Hawk (white phase)

'Io (dark phase)

The rare `akia pola`au occurs in only a few areas of upper elevation on the Big Island. Its bill is the most unusual in the honeycreeper family. The lower bill is short, straight, and stout. With mouth agape, it is used to chisel holes, woodpecker style. The upper bill is long, curved, and slender. It is used to probe, pierce, and pull insects and caterpillars from the hole. The male is brilliant yellow with a black mask; the female is dull green with a less distinctive mask and slightly shorter bill.

The `akepa is an insect-eating bird with a short, straight bill. The male is blaze orange; the female is gray-green with tinges of yellow or orange on the breast. It is the only Hawaiian honeycreeper that always nests in natural tree cavities.

The largest endangered forest bird in Hawaii is the ‘Io (Hawaiian Hawk). It is frequently seen soaring high above the tree canopy in search of birds, large insects, mice, and rats. Rarely seen in the 1960s and 1970s, hawks are now frequently observed from the coast to the tree line on mountain slopes.

Hawaiian Thrush - Omao

Read more.. Sunday, January 13th, 2013

Hawaii Journal: The Big Island

Island in the Pacific

Hualalai Volcano

It was an easy sell to our adult children and their spouses to join us on Hawaii’s Big Island for the Holidays. As a young family we frequented this special place almost yearly, usually in the spring, and we hold many fond memories of our time exploring there. In fact our passion for birding was given a major boost by a chance meeting in the 1990’s with a local naturalist and entrepreneur, Rob Pachenco . His company, Hawaii Forest & Trail, has flourished and is a model of responsible ecotourism in the region. In fact we arranged several exploratory excursions into the Mauna Kea rainforests with HFT naturalist and bird specialist Garry Dean, who had guided us on our last visit to the island in 2004. And of course not to be missed is a journey into Volcanoes National Park which we did and spent a beautiful day into the evening in the shadow of the great Kilauea Crater, one of the few accessible active volcanoes in the world. It has been erupting continuously for 29 years! So include some spectacular snorkeling, body surfing and opportunity to get up close and personal with a newly born humpback whale calf and its mother all in a primordial setting of moonscape lava rock with average dry temperatures of 80 degrees…it was magical. Since there is much to review from this expedition we will explore through several posts.

Kohola Volcano from Puako

Marine Preserve at Wailea Bay

Mauna Loa from Hakalau National Forest

Sun sets in Puako

Full Moon rise over The Big Island

Observatories on Mauna Kea from Saddle Road

Mauna Kea Volcano

Pololu Valley

Christmas Sunrise on Mauna Kea

High Surf in Puako

Read more.. Sunday, January 13th, 2013